John Galliano Exits the Way That He Entered

IN the last two months, the editor of French Vogue has resigned; the president of Yves Saint Laurent said she will leave her dream job to run the vanity label of Reed Krakoff, the Coach creative director, whose one dream is apparently to be successful. Gucci Group cut its chief executive loose. The first anniversary, on Feb. 11, of Alexander McQueen’s suicide brought up another loss, another memory. And on the nausea went until, implausibly, John Galliano self-destructed in a liquored-up “I love Hitler” rant — caught, as so many career-enders are these days, on video and circulated on the Web. Some felt the panic more than others and wondered if it was not time for them to get out, too. Some confronted it the only way the modern media world allows, by riding it out and planning to get to the Mugler show early on Wednesday night, because Lady Gaga was expected to model and there would be a scene. But in this context, the words “the show must go on,” hoisted like a dinky white flag, feel callow. One thing is for sure: Dior’s chief executive, Sidney Toledano, and his boss, the biggest pencil in the luxury-goods business, Bernard Arnault, the chairman of LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton, had to begin dismissal procedures against Mr. Galliano. They couldn’t tolerate the public hating by Mr. Galliano, however out of character his defenders said it was for him. In circumstances like these, a sensible millionaire designer would have jumped into his chauffeured car and gone to his boss and pleaded insanity, whereupon he would have been given an all-expense-paid trip to rehab. But that’s just it: Mr. Galliano is not a sensible man, any more than fashion chiefs are missionaries. Last Friday, when Dior suspended him, many fashion writers suspected that the company was seizing an opportunity to fire him after 15 years on the job. Though he could still dazzle with haute couture, like last summer’s flower-tinted collection, the real business is in accessories and ready-to-wear — and Mr. Galliano’s own eccentric turn-outs at the end of shows were often all editors talked about as they buzzed and buzzed about Phoebe Philo of Céline or someone equally relevant.

Louis Vuitton wins over Chinese consumers by resonating with their cultural background

Louis Vuitton’s use of a popular Chinese social network, SINA, demonstrates how a premium brand can encourage positive engagement from Chinese consumers online. Louis Vuitton’s strategy of posting about charitable campaigns and fashion news generates a highly favourable response compared to posts about Louis Vuitton's products. Louis Vuitton has also succeeded in increasing love for their brand among Chinese users. Louis Vuitton’s official brand page on SINA, a popular Chinese social network similar to Twitter, has attracted a strong fan base with over 70,000 followers, more than other premium brands like Chanel or Gucci. Alongside posts about their products and cultural events, Louis Vuitton have recently posted pictures of their charity sponsored panda, named “Louis”, who acts as an emblem for the brand's supportive actions towards panda protection in China. WaveMetrix analysis shows that the post about Louis the panda generates the most positive response among all topics Louis Vuitton posts about. This suggests that a successful way to engage consumers in emerging markets is to post about topics that will resonate with their cultural background. In addition, Chinese consumers are not only more positive in response to the charity post, but also express more love for the Louis Vuitton brand than they do for product-related posts.

The Business of Fashion: Clothing Prices on the Rise

Between the skyrocketing price of cotton and the surging costs of manufacturing and labor in places like China and India, the bottom line is swelling for fashion brands—from the makers of $10,000 exotic skinned handbags to mass retailers who charge $5 for a cotton t-shirt. Price hikes are on the way, retail analysts predict somewhere between 10-20 percent by fall, some of which have already started to roll out. A Brooks Brothers wrinkle-free men’s dress shirt now costs $88, up from $79.50. A Louis Vuitton Suhali Lockit PM bag has risen to $3,100, up from $2,640. Cotton has more than doubled in price over the past year thanks to increasing demand from developing countries and due to deadly floods in Pakistan and heavy rains in China that slowed production. There has been a ripple effect on polyester and wool. The price of overseas labor is also on the rise, which will likely have a trickle-down effect. While fashion companies have been wary of pushing these costs onto shoppers still stung from the downturn, rising consumer confidence has signaled to many that it’s time. Others simply don’t have a choice, the costs have to be picked up by someone. Despite the rising cost of materials, most upstart designers are still looking to boost their visibility with eye-catching collections featuring fur, lace, silks, and otherwise -- think of Prabal Gurung and Jason Wu's collections in New York, for example. It's becoming increasingly important for fans of those brands to be aware of how much it increasingly costs to create a collection of these calibres. What could this mean for a designer like Alexander Wang—who has succeeded creating accessible luxury made in China and thanks to a diffusion cotton line named “T”? Dana Telsey, the CEO of the Telsey Advisory Group says, “Certainly that mid to low end consumer, they are focused on price and value.” In other words, it's up to designers like Wang to convince consumers that their products are special despite rising prices. Everyone from underwear maker Hanesbrand to Abercrombie & Fitch to Jones Apparel Group say they are feeling the pinch of the rising costs of materials, and have announced that they will raise prices. Roger Farah, President and COO of Polo Ralph Lauren said, “I think really until we all get to fall of next year, we won’t know whether the consumer understands and accepts what will be an overall increase for most product categories.” Up-and-coming designers with smaller production runs could feel the effects even more harshly than others because they lack the bargaining power of a larger conglomerate. Though rising design talent could simultaneously benefit by reaching consumers moving away from fast fashion chains like Gap and Zara in favor of something more unique. Jennifer Black an Oregon based retail analyst says, “If you’re selling a basic t-shirt, good luck. Raising prices will be tough, because the consumer has gotten used to paying a certain amount.”

In China, males carry purses

Tiger Zhang browsed the sweaters at the Hugo Boss boutique at the upscale Oriental Plaza mall looking for fashionable additions to his wardrobe. The 41-year-old investor was dressed in the unofficial uniform of Chinese businessmen: dark blazer, crisp white shirt, designer slacks, silky tan socks, hand-tooled loafers - and an expensive purse. Lest anyone think the $500 Dunhill clutch with dual bronze zippers belonged to his wife, he proudly explained how his business cards, cash and two cellphones fit neatly into its buttery leather interior. "It's crucial for business," said Zhang, who chose the chocolate-colored bag because he thought it was stylish without being flashy. "It shows I have good taste." That's debatable, considering Zhang wore his hair in a cotton candy pouf. What's clear is that the designer handbag, long a fashion staple for stylish women worldwide, has become a status symbol for upwardly mobile men in China. At business meetings and social events across China these days, many of the Prada, Louis Vuitton and Burberry bags are being toted by the fellows in the crowd. Wang Zhongzhu, a 42-year-old insurance executive, wouldn't dream of networking without his $1,000 leather Dunhill slung over his shoulder. He said the creamy brown mini-messenger bag sends a message that he appreciates - and can afford - fine accessories. "It's a way of representing where you stand," Wang said. "It makes people think you could potentially work for a big company." Designed for men, many of these guy purses, often known as shou bao in Mandarin, would be right at home in the women's handbag section of an upscale department store. Popular styles include the oversize wallet with wraparound zippers like Zhang's and the embossed leather Coach handbag with the slinky shoulder strap and handles. Colors trend toward solid brown, black and gray. But some fashion-forward gents don't mind showing a little flash: Burberry plaid, Gucci's interlocking GG pattern or Louis Vuitton's distinct LV monogram. Luxury leather goods makers can't believe their luck: Both sexes in the world's most populous country adore purses. Men represent 45 percent of the $1.2 billion market for all luxury handbags in China, according to Victor Luis, president of Coach Retail International. That figure is just 7 percent in the U.S.

Paris Hilton wears Gucci clutch for Paris Hilton Passport launch at Macy’s

Paris Hilton officially launched her new fragrance trio, Passport, this weekend at Macy’s stores nation-wide. The official launch event was held at Macy’s Galleria at Tyler in Riverside, Ca. and Paris Hilton walked the step and repeat wearing a pewter metallic embossed leather Gucci handbag with the strap tucked in which completed her Honeysuckle pink, one shoulder dress perfectly. The Gucci clutch Paris Hilton wore at her Passport fragrance launch is the perfect size and fabrication to be worn for daytime events as well as evenings. The pewter color of the leather is an understated metallic, giving the handbag an on-trend hue while not reflecting the sun and blinding on-lookers. Pewter, being a darker metallic, can easily carry Paris Hilton from spring into fall; making the clutch a good investment handbag for 2011. The handbag features a small strap allowing it to be handheld or worn on the forearm. The strap can easily tuck in and allow the handbag to be worn as a clutch; as Paris Hilton has done for her Passport launch event. Paris Hilton’s Gucci clutch can easily fit a small wallet, smart phone, keys and lipstick. The soft leather has the Gucci logo embossed on it and the handbag features a flap magnetic closure.

Gucci handbags fall 2011 Milan Fashion Week

Gucci, designed by Frida Giannini, showed their fall 2011 collection today during Milan Fashion Week and it showed signs of the 1970’s influence as well as vivid colors remaining important for fall. Gucci sent models down the runway in culottes, long hemlines with long slits, wide leg trouser pants, an occasional bow at the neckline, pencil skirts and vivid colors mixed with traditional basic black, brown and white. The fabrications used for the collection include mohair, python, fox, mink, silk, exotic leathers and tweeds. There were several handbag styles on the runway as well, including a mini Lady Bag, hobo handbag and varying shoulder bags. The mini Lady Bag on the Gucci fall 2011 runway was the size of a daytime clutch and the shape of a regular, daytime satchel. The mini Lady Bag featured one top handle and a flap closure. Gucci created the mini Lady Bag in black, orange, purple and pink for the Milan runway. The shoulder bag made several appearance on the Gucci runway and was shown with two different length straps; the long strap and short strap. The long strap allowed the shoulder bags to reach the top of the models’ hip bones. The short strap would tuck the shoulder bag right under the armpit if worn on the shoulder. For the runway show, Gucci showed the shorter strap shoulder bag being handheld by the models. The shoulder bags were shown in black, brown, pink, purple, tan, white and black with brown leather trim. Gucci featured flap closure on the shoulder bags as well as python, exotic leather or smooth leather. The sides of the shoulder bags featured accordian pleats. Gucci also created a long, rectangular daytime clutch for the fall 2011 Milan Fashion Week runway. The long, daytime clutch was made from shiny python and could easily fit a wallet, smart phone, keys and lipstick. There were also classic hobo handbags on the runway in python and smooth leather. The python hobos were slightly more structured than the smooth leather. The overall silhouette of the hobo handbags was less slouchy than what was shown for spring.

Milan Fashion Week handbag trends from the runway

Milan Fashion Week sent the last set of models down the runway today and left the fashion world with many new trends, designs and handbags to think about. The handbags that were shown mirrored trends from last season as well as trends from decades ago. There were classic styles, vintage styles and a few styles that handbag fans were unsure of; i.e. the Dolce & Gabanna fanny packs. The big trends that Milan Fashion Week did produce, and are likely to hit store shelves for the fall 2011 season include; the long shoulder strap, the Lady Bag, the daytime clutch, the hobo and color. The Shoulder Strap on shoulder bags has been the biggest mover over the past year. As the straps grew long during the runway shows for spring 2011, shoulder bags joined the vintage trend with apparel as the 1970’s became an important decade of influence for designers. The long shoulder strap was spotted once again on the fall 2011 runways throughout Milan runways such as Gucci and Etro. The Lady Bag was huge for fall 2010 and slid into the background on the spring 2011 runways. Stores ignored the fact that the Lady Bag was hiding in the background and buyers have filled up their spring shelves with top handle satchels. The Lady Bag knows her place and came back on the fall runways with a vengeance. Gianfranco Ferre and Fendi showed standout Lady Bag’s for fall. The Daytime Clutch was a huge trend on the spring 2011 runways. This style has returned on the Milan Fashion Week runways in a slightly larger and more structured form. D&G and Prada showed creative, standout daytime clutches in their collections. The Hobo Handbag was a big spring 2011 runway trend in slouchy soft leather. For fall, hobos are being shown in a variety of fabrications and in both structured and slouchy styles. Giorgio Armani and Gucci showed fresh takes on the hobo for fall 2011 during Milan Fashion Week. Color is not going anywhere. Designers in Milan continued to show bold colors on handbags well as combining two or more colors together; either in blocking patterns or as a pattern on fabrications such as brocade. Trends from the runway to watch; the north/south tote which was big on the spring 2011 runways was once again spotted during Milan Fashion Week. A few designers showed short shoulder straps on their shoulder bags which allowed the handbag to tuck into the armpits of models. This length of strap was huge at the end of the 1990’s and shortly after Y2K. This length could pop up again for the spring 2012 with more fervor than for fall 2011.